We spent our last night back in Lisbon where we had a farewell dinner at a casa de fado. I thought this would be a cheesy experience but it was quite lovely. Fado, I've learned, is a traditional music genre that is soulful and emotional. Heartache, longing, love, and sorrow are common themes, but there are also some upbeat songs.
The performance we attended featured two acoustic guitar players: one using what was called a Portuguese guitar (12 strings, curved head, rounded body) and the other on a regular guitar. They accompany a singer whose voice and gestures and demeanor convey the emotion of the Fado. The words are Portuguese, of course, but the feelings came across, no problem.
There were three performances during our multi-course dinner. Each featured a different vocalist with the same two guitarists. The protocol is this: when the performers are ready, the lights are dimmed. This is the signal for everyone in the restaurant to pause eating and become silent. The performers enter the room and take their positions (the guitarists seated, the vocalist standing). Then they perform 3 or 4 songs during which everyone remains silent except for enthusiastic applause. When they're done, the performers leave the room, the lights are raised, and everyone resumes eating.
The restaurant dining room was extremely close quarters and my table was right next to the performance space. The vocalist would stand right next to me facing one guitarist with the other guitarist at his/her side. I was careful to maintain a rapt expression, which wasn't hard. I was so close, I couldn't take photos, but here are some internet images to give you an idea.
Here is the Casa de Fada we visited: Maria da Mouraria
One of our guides took notes during the performance so he could tell us what the songs were about:
It was a great way to finish our Portugal experience.
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